![]() And I will continue to use LR, which is the best software period for us RAW shooters. I will continue to buy all of their lenses and the XT-2 the moment it is available. But I don't want to get banned and I love Fuji. If you think there is no paintbrush foliage LR RAF problem, then you are delusional or have an agenda. others find the issue to be a huge problem and prefer doing their post processing with other applications. Some (like myself) are quite happy with LR and have no desire to change. There really is no definitive answer here, since the issues are subtle and not everyone perceives them in the same way. You can search this forum for any number of threads that have lots of examples and a wide range of opinions on this subject. There are tons of opinions on this and rehashing this topic in detail yet again is really pointless. other applications, such as Iridient or Capture One. All the controversy here (and the subject of thousands of posts here over the last couple of years) has to do with how good a job LR does with processing RAF files vs. Lightroom works just fine with RAF files. Is this still actual? If anyway LR does the job but is not the best RAW processor for RAF file, then which one would you recommend? I have downloaded some X-T10 raf files and I see no problems, colours look fine (I have the last version of LR). While Fuji JPGs are pleasing to most Fuji users, I prefer exploring the full potential of the Fuji raw file in order to reach a level of visual fidelity to the content I chose to capture.I have read in Internet that the problem with the Fuji raw files is that Lightroom is not capable of process them. When shot at Auto DR + Auto ISO + Exposure compensation Zero, the resulting file allows an insane level of flexibility with full highlight and shadow recovery (unlike my Nikon NEFs which only allow shadow recovery). While I can understand its use for absolute images, it lacks the workflow speed and intuitiveness of Lightroom which I use on a daily basis for a living. Last time I spoke with the Fuji representatives, they told me Fuji simply paid Capture One to have the name appear next to the software name without much optimization. As such, C1 and C1 Fuji is one and the same. Since C1 offered marginal improvements to my results at the sacrifice of a steep learning curve and inferior "file stretching" abilities, I chose to continue working with Lightroom. Since Fuji's Xtrans sensor array is different from that of typical Bayer camera sensors, the sequence of colors is usually confused by the Adobe Camera Raw engine. Therefore, Adobe is prone to skip colors and create voids of information that will need blending later on. This generates the "waxy watercolor" effect that many would notice on foliage and fine detail. Since X-Transformer rearranges the Xtrans color array into a typical Bayer array, the resulting digital negative will appear in Adobe softwares without the usual artifacts. Here are some examples (you can download the raw files HERE for personal use only). For the sake of this page, I have compressed them, but they can be found in max quality in the zip file. I have included more images in the zip file for further personal comparisons. This first image of the apartment buildings is shot at 1/125 f8 to remove camera shake and hints of lens softness. When inspecting the RAF file on the left, we can notice a lot of smudges and over-sharpening artifacts in the center of the image on the tree trunk and branches. The orange handle of the shovel almost bleeds into the brick wall behind. In the xtransformer converted DNG file on the right, each pixel is given space to display information. In this part of the blog, I'll show you how to use the converter through simple steps. Here are my settings, inspired by this author and tweaked to my liking (least a. I invite you to try his and mine as well as play around with the software to tweak the results to your liking. Settings -> Reduce Processor Utilization to be CHECKED Sharpening to NONEÄefault camera profile to Iridient Standard Expect your DNG files to be of larger size than your RAF files. ![]() Settings -> Process Batched Images One by One to be UNCHECKED I found that method to be the most effective, clean and ideal for neat file management. Once finished, go back to the folder that contains the Fuji RAF files and delete all RAF files Go for a walk and wait for the converter to finish Import/Move the Fuji RAF files into a folderįind the folder that contain the Fuji RAF files Make sure your computer isn't doing anything important (the software will drastically slow your computer down during conversion) This method also allows multiple files to be converted simultaneously using all the cores of multicore CPUs and is faster than the Lightroom Method. ![]()
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